Learn
about wine:
A TOUR OF EUROPE'S WINE REGIONS
Wine expert Joe Wadsack talks Pinot Noir Epiphanies
and how to pair hors d'oeuvres with your favourite tipple
(reproduced courtesy of Discover the Origin
- www.discovertheorigin.co.uk)
 Going
abroad is when many people take the opportunity to try
new gourmet food - sampling a gorgeous new drop of red
or a new type of cured ham, so it's no wonder if you
haven't taken a trip this year you may be feeling like
you are missing out on the experience.
Whether you stayed at home or travelled to Europe and
have the post holiday blues, worry not as some of the
very best quality produce is available in the UK and
readily at your fingertips.
In this video, wine expert Joe Wadsack gives you tips
on making the most out of Port (and not just for Christmas),
the wines of the Burgundy region in France and the Douro
Valley in Portugal. He'll also give advice to ensure
you're trying true top-quality European foods that have
the PDO official stamp. Watch Joe's video to find out
how to have your own "Pinot Noir Epiphany"
and the best way to serve and eat hors d'oeuvres like
Parma ham and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.
BURGUNDY WINE
 Think
burgundy, think terroir.
The terroir in Burgundy, is the basis of the Appellation
d'Origine Contrôlée.
In Burgundy, terroir is a broad concept which includes
both natural and human factors. It was wine growers,
who discovered, identified and then developed the terroirs.
Centuries of hard work was necessary for this concept,
whose origin goes back to the early Middle Ages, to
be passed down to us, and to be officially recognised
and described in the middle of the last century with
the creation of the I.N.A.O. (Institut National des
Appellations d'Origine) and Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée
(AOC).
There is not one word in English that is equivalent
to "terroir". However it can be best translated
as comprising of soil and local topography and with
the macroclimate can have a great effect on the mesoclimate
and vine microclimate. The terroir is above all the
sub-soil and soil from which the vine draws its nutrients
and which create a secret alchemy of colours, aromas
and flavours.
If the nature of the soil is the key element of the
terroir, many other natural factors have an influence
on the quality, typicity and expression of a wine: the
exposure to the sun of the plot of land, its altitude,
the depth and drainage of the soil, the climatic conditions
of the year and the microclimate.
The main grape varieities in Burgundy:
Pinot Noir
Over 90% of the red wines in the Burgundy region are
made using the Pinot Noir grape, which requires a
particular climate - not too warm and not too cold.
Pinot Noir is one of the world's greatest grape varieties
and produces wines that are pale in colour, with softer
tannins.
Pinot Noir is a fragile grape and likes neither extremes
of heat or cold. The unique conditions in Burgundy
produce Pinot Noirs relatively low in alcohol, certainly
by new world standards (13 degrees rather than 14.5
is ideal here). The best growers are looking for purity
of flavour, complexity and length rather than rich,
up front mouthfuls of fruit.
The Pinot Noir loves well-drained marl and limestone
soils on which, depending on the proportion of limestone
and the situation of the plot, it will produce a light,
elegant red or a powerful, vigorous wine.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay originated in the region and most of the
delicious white wines from Burgundy are made using
this grape variety. The diversity of the "terroirs"
in Burgundy is expressed through the grapes and the
wines vary from light and crisp to rich and full-bodied
so there is a white Burgundy wine for every occasion
and to suit all tastes.
The Chardonnay prefers marly-limestone soils that
are quite clayey, where it develops all its elegance
and smooth flavours. It is the proportion of clay
in the soil which determines the more or less aromatic,
full style of the great dry white wines of Burgundy.
Gamay
The Gamay grape is quite a heavy-cropping plant. The
grape bunches more or less tightly packed according
to variety.
The variety which concerns us here is the white-juiced
black Gamay which, when planted in the Mâconnais
on 'Burgundy style' soils, produces attractive and
aromatic red wines under such a label as Mâcon
Rouge.
A small amount of Gamay can be found the in the Côte
d'Or. The wines produced here, on the clay-limestone
soils, differ from the Mâconnais and are less
refined.
The red wines of the Mâconnais and Beaujolais
owe their reputation to this grape variety.
Aligoté
The Aligoté is a medium-fine plant, which has
a long history in Burgundy and can be found almost
anywhere in soils, which though good for vines, suit
neither the Pinot Noir nor the Chardonnay. The wine
made from it goes under the official name Bourgogne
Aligoté. It can also provide one of the ingredients
for sparkling Crémant de Bourgogne.
Viticulture
Yields are limited depending on the classification
i.e. permitted yields of Grand Cru are lower than
Premier Cru. Generally lower yields produce more concentrated
wines. This is also the case for Pinot Noir.
Grand Cru wines make up 2% of the production at 35
hectolitres/hectare while Premier Cru wines consist
of 12% of the productions at 45 hectolitres/hectare.
Village wines equate to 50 hectolitres/hectare at
36% of the yield and AOC Bourgogne makes up the rest
at 55 hectolitres/hectare.
In Burgundy, the density of plantings is high, up
to 12,000 vines per hectare. Most vines are trained
low along wires to the Guyot system.
Harvesting is mostly done by hand. This is especially
important for the delicate Pinot Noir grape.
Vinification
Treatment of grapes - The best Domaines will only
use the grapes that they feel are in perfect condition.
Bunches will be left in the vineyards and then sorted
again on a sorting table at the cuverie. In a difficult
year a Domaine can easily discard 25% of their crop
in this way to ensure they produce the best wine possible.
Once in the cuverie the wines are allowed to soak
on their skins at cold temperatures (maceration) allowing
the gentle extraction of colour and aroma. During
fermentation, the skins and juice are also pumped
down (it's called the 'pigeage') or pumped over (juice
from the bottom of the cuve is pumped back over the
skins that have risen to the top of the cuve). This
maximises the contact between the juice and skins.
Red wines
The degree to which the 'pigeage' is done depends
on the grower. Too much extraction, however, causes
the wine to become overly dark, tannic and bitter
and whilst the finishing wine might look impressive
in the glass it will probably dry out as it ages and
not be representative of Burgundy red wines, which
should be about subtlety and delicacy.
White wines
After the grapes are pressed and left to settle,
they are then clarified. Fermentation takes place
in either vat or oak cask. Depending on the style
of the wine required, malolactic fermentation is either
encouraged or suppressed. Maturation in vats or oak
casks and the length of time spent depends on the
style required.
Oak
The wines are generally aged in oak barrels called
"Pièces" in Burgundy, which are 228
litres in size. Some of these barrels will be new,
some will have been used in the previous vintage or
even in several previous vintages. The percentage
of new oak tends to increase with the quality of juice.
A Grand Cru is richer in fruit than a Village and
can therefore handle more new oak. Some growers favour
100% new oak for their Grands Crus, others are happier
with 40%.
Bottling
Good Burgundy is known to age well in bottle. Premier
Cru is usually aged for five to ten years in bottle
and for Grand Cru, it is about ten years but most
can be kept for much longer. Wines are usually filtered
before bottling. This contributes to their stability
and adds clarity. Bottling has to be carefully timed.
If the wine stays too long in the vats it becomes
tired and "dried out" and loses its aroma.
Bottling of white wines tends to be between July
and December of the year following the vintage. Bottling
of reds wines tends to be a little later, between
12 and 18 months after the harvest.
All these factors, plus the work in the vineyards throughout
the year and the care and attention in the cellar, mean
that each vineyard has its own characteristics and each
wine within each vineyard can have its own individual
taste and aromas.
Burgundy then offers endless scope for finding the
perfect wine for any occasion - and for anyone, no matter
how extensive their wine knowledge.
DOURO VALLEY WINE
 Douro
Valley wines, made from the same grapes as Port, have
experienced a renaissance in recent years, with modern
equipment and techniques enhancing the quality.
In 1982 they received their own Denominacão
de Origem Controlada (DOC) - Denomination of Origin
- classification, over 200 years after Port. The combination
of these factors has lead to dynamism in wine production
and Douro Valley wines are now exported all over the
world, often being referred to as the jewel in Portugal's
crown.
Grape Varieties
Port and DOC Douro Valley wines are made only with
native grape varieties. The main ones are:
Red:
Touriga Nacional
Only accounts for a small amount of the region's vine
stock but is growing rapidly. The grape had virtually
become extinct by the 1970s but was thankfully brought
back by producers who worked vigorously on clones
of it as well as the grape variety itself. A difficult
grape to manage but it can produce the darkest and
most concentrated of wines: deep, dense and with cast-iron
backbone.
Tinta Barroca
This grape is planted at higher altitudes or on cooler
north-facing slopes in the Cima Corgo. It is the first
to ripen but is susceptible to extreme heat. This
grape produces supple, well-structured wines, which
frequently have a distinctive rustic, earthy character.
Tinto Cão
This grape is even more challenging to grow than Touriga
Nacional, with small bunches and small yields. It
ripens late but needs to be picked at just the right
time to achieve the delicate balance of alcohol and
acidity. This grape has the capacity to produce long-lasting,
complex wines.
Tinta Roriz
The one "international" variety as it's
also known as Tempranillo in Spain. It produces wines
that combine tight, firm fruit with finesse and length.
Touriga Franca
The most widely planted variety. It flourishes on
warmer south-facing slopes and gives consistent yields.
This grape brings structure, up-front fruit, elegance
and floral overtones.
The young reds for immediate drinking have cherry
and raspberry aromas, and the cellar reds start with
notes of black fruit and chocolate, but age to great
delicacy and complexity for 20 years or more.
White:
Malvasia
This variety is the second most widely planted grape
in the Douro Valley. It is difficult to cultivate
but the results can be impressive. Elegant wines with
hints of nutmeg and some smoke.
Rabigato
(Portuguese for cat's tail), matures slowly and is
able to stand up to extreme heat. Its aroma is of
medium intensity and sweet, reminding us of Orange
flowers with some vegetable notes, equilibrium and
fresh, with a fruity taste. In the mouth, it has vivacity
and some persistency. It offers White Port and Douro
Valley wines freshness and high levels of acidity.
Viosinho
This is a low-yield variety and produces some very
high quality wines. Good intensity, reminding camomile
and plums, fruity and complex. Medium acidity with
a pleasant aroma in mouth.
Food and wine matching
The fresh, fruity white wines with floral aromas
are an excellent aperitif, and can be paired very
successfully with seafood and grilled fresh fish,
for which Portugal is justly famous. The white wines
that have been aged in oak are ideal with roast fish
or chicken. Young reds compliment fowl, mild salted
fish such as bacalhau or pasta particularly well.
The more full bodied cellar reds are perfect with
game and other strong flavoured meat dishes.
The
above information is reproduced courtesy of Discover
the Origin. Discover the Origin is a campaign promoted
by the European Union, Italy, France and Portugal
and achieved by the office representative of five
key European products: Burgundy wines, Port and Douro
Valley wines, Parma Ham and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.
The aim of all of them is to enhance knowledge of
the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) among consumers,
distributors and food professionals and to educate
on the benefits of the provenance indicator schemes,
the relevant checks, controls and traceability systems
that are put in place to ensure ongoing quality, and
to differentiate the products and raise their profiles.
For more information visit www.discovertheorigin.co.uk
Published
27 October 2009
|
