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| ALL
ABOUT ROASTING by Molly Stevens |
BOOK
REVIEW |
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To
order a copy of All About Roasting <click
here>
 To
give it its full title the book is called All About
Roasting: A New Approach to a Classic Art
I thought I knew all about roasting until I picked
up this book. I have been cooking roast dinners for
more years than I care to remember so my expectations
of learning anything new were very low. And I have to
admit I was somewhat prejudiced in my outlook, after
all how can anyone from outside the UK, the country
famous for its roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, tell
us how to cook a roast. How wrong could I have been?
I started reading and I was gripped, as if I was reading
some crime thriller. I just wanted to know more especially
when I came across salting. I had never heard of anyone
salting a joint of beef (nor steaks), let alone done
it. Sunday could not come quickly enough, or should
I say Friday, as I would need to start salting my beef
24 hours before cooking.
I was talking to one of the checkout operators in my
local supermarket about salting a roasting joint and
she said she could remember her mother doing that. So
is it a cooking skill we have just forgotten or am I
just someone who never learnt it? Be that as it may
the book is truly fascinating.
Every kind of roast is covered from the traditional
roast dinner through to roast vegetables and fruit,
with a whole section on fish. There is even the recipe
for British Roast Potatoes.
One thing that strikes you as soon as you pick the
book up . . . it is heavy and you certainly need to
rest it on a table. And it is not just heavy because
it is a big book but because there are so many pages
just packed with information. The trend these days is
for books packed with photographs selling on the appeal
of the photographs rather the content of the book. Not
so here. Photographs are limited as the book stands
on its own for the quality of writing and the sheer
knowledge that has gone into its writing.
I read in an Amazon review that "This indeed would
be a good cookbook and gift for beginning cooks . .
." and it would, but for me this has already proved
a real gem. As an experienced cook it is teaching me
things I did not know and also reminding me of things
I had forgotten over time or through bad habits. I just
can't wait to try more form the book.
A lot of hard work and time has gone into putting it
all together. It is one of those books that should be
on your kitchen bookshelf.
Molly Stevens
Molly Stevens is a food writer, editor and cooking
teacher living in Northern Vermont. Her cookbook All
About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking won
a 2005 James Beard Foundation award and an International
Association of Culinary Professionals award. Food &
Wine magazine listed the book as one of the top 10 cookbooks
of 2004. Molly's articles and recipes appear regularly
in Fine Cooking magazine where she is a contributing
editor. She has contributed regularly to Bon Appétit,
Saveur and Eating Well magazines. Her recipes and tips
have also appeared in The Wall Street Journal, Everyday
with Rachel Ray, Real Simple, Yankee, Easy Living (UK),
Drinks, Real Food, and House & Garden (South Africa)
magazines
From 2000 through 2005, Molly co-edited the annual
series, The Best American Recipes with Fran McCullough
. In 2006, Molly and Fran culminated the series by publishing
The 150 Best American Recipes: Indispensable Dishes
from Legendary Chefs and Undiscovered Cooks , which
was nominated as an IACP finalist. Previously, Molly
co-authored One Potato, Two Potato with Roy Finamore.
She also wrote New England, part of the Williams-Sonoma
New American Cooking Series (Time-Life). Past editorial
projects include Williams-Sonoma Kitchen Companion (Time-Life),
The All New Joy of Cooking (Scribner), and several of
Anne Willan's books, including Country Cooking of France
(Chronicle), From My Château Kitchen (Clarkson
Potter) and Cooking with Wine (Abrams).
Molly has been described in the New York Times Book
Review as “a beautifully clear writer who likes
to teach”. Classically trained as a chef in France,
Molly has directed programs and taught at the French
Culinary Institute, New England Culinary Institute,
and L'Ecole de Cuisine La Varenne in Burgundy, France
and Venice, Italy. She continues to travel and teach
cooking classes across the country. Molly served on
the board of directors for the Vermont Fresh Network
from 2003 to 2008. She was a 2009 fellow in the Environmental
Leadership Program.
(Taken from her web site)
Web site: www.mollystevenscooks.com
- Roasts,
glorious roasts - wogan "the book reader"
(Amazon review)
I thought I had the best book on roasts already in
my collection, but I guess this will have to join
the cookbook shelf and share the grandeur of roasts
together. Molly Stevens includes recipes for; beef
and lamb, pork, chicken and other poultry, fish and
shellfish, vegetables and fruit.
One
of the best things about this book is the amount of
useful information it gives in the introduction. There
is a chart for what goes with specific dishes, and
page numbers, many worthwhile conversion charts. The
introduction includes information about the history
of roasting, the science behind it, how to roast and
basic methods, the effects of basting, brining, salting,
steps to make a pan sauce, carving, the equipment,
and ovens, even shopping instructions.
There are not many photos of the finished recipes
themselves, but there are very good photos of techniques
and how to accomplish specific instructions along
with the directions on how to prepare the recipes.
There are suggestions for wine, serving amounts,
roasting time and options are included.
Sources with web sites, telephone numbers (all in
the US) and an index is included.
So far we have tried and enjoyed whole roast duck
with hoisin sauce (lazy person's Peking duck), and
the roast goose, which is supposed to be for Christmas,
but we could not wait and a very good recipe for
British roast potatoes.
This indeed would be a good cookbook and gift for
beginning cooks and even those a bit more experienced.
- “Whether
you are someone who takes visceral pleasure from the
crackling sounds and intoxicating smells of a kitchen
in which something is being roasted or a culinary
scientist who just wants to know how it’s done
- you need to have this cookbook.” ~ Danny
Meyer, author of Setting the Table, The Transforming
Power of Hospitality in Business
- “I’m
delighted to see that Molly Stevens has come out with
a book that’s far ahead of the pack on the subject
of roasting. The book is detailed yet succinct, complex
yet simply explained and a must-have for any cook’s
library. Brava.” ~ James Peterson, seven-time
James Beard award winner, most recently for Meat:
A Kitchen Education
- “Roasting
is my favorite kind of cooking. And All About Roasting
is my favorite kind of book.” ~ Nigella
Lawson, author of Nigella Fresh
ALL
ABOUT ROASTING SAMPLE RECIPES
SEAR-ROASTED CHATEAUBRIAND
As much as I love to innovate and explore new flavors,
there are times when I crave something classic, and
Chateaubriand, especially when paired with béarnaise
sauce, more than satisfies that craving. Chateaubriand
has come to refer to the center, most indulgent portion
of the beef tenderloin. Though you will often see it
on restaurant menus (especially around Valentine’s Day),
as just big enough to serve two, a larger portion makes
an exquisite offering for a small dinner party. While
you can prepare and serve this cut as you would any
cut of beef tenderloin, there is something deeply satisfying
about the combination of the tender, almost silky meat
and the rich, tarragon-infused butter sauce. One bite
and you instantly recognize why this combination has
stood the test of time. Because it is smaller than a
whole tenderloin, the Chateaubriand is manageable enough
to sear in a skillet before gently roasting, which results
in a gorgeously browned exterior and an interior that’s
rosy and juicy.
Method: Combination sear and moderate
heat
Roasting time: 25 to 35 minutes (plus
8 minutes to sear)
Plan ahead: For best flavor and texture,
salt the beef 12 to 24 hours ahead.
Wine: Look for an aged classified growth
Bordeaux (Pauillac or St.-Julien), or Napa Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon.
Ingredients
One 2 to 2½ lb center-cut piece of beef tenderloin,
trimmed of silverskin and any excess fat (see below)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon peanut oil or grapeseed oil
Béarnaise Sauce (see below)
How to make
- Season the beef. Sprinkle the entire surface of
the beef with the salt and pepper (I use about 1 teaspoon
salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper). Place it on a
rimmed baking sheet on a wire rack and refrigerate,
uncovered or loosely covered, for 12 to 24 hours.
- Heat the oven. Position a rack in the center of
the oven and heat to 375°F (350°F convection).
Let the beef sit at room temperature for about 30
minutes as the oven heats.
- Sear the meat. Heat a low-sided, 10 inch ovenproof
skillet over medium/high heat until quite hot. Add
the oil, and heat until shimmering, about 30 seconds.
If the surface of the meat is not very dry, pat it
dry with a paper towel. Lower the meat into the skillet
and brown one side well. Turn with tongs to brown
all sides, about 8 minutes total.
- Roast. Slide the skillet into the oven, and roast
until an instant read thermometer inserted in the
center reads 120°F for rare, 125°F to 130°F
degrees for medium-rare, or 135°F for medium,
25 to 35 minutes.
- Rest, carve, and serve. Transfer beef to a carving
board, preferably one with a trough, and let rest
for 10 to 15 minutes before carving crosswise into
one third to half inch thick slices. If serving with
the béarnaise, spoon some sauce over each serving
or transfer the sauce to a warmed sauceboat and pass
it at the table.
Serves 4 – 6
Shopping for Chateaubriand
Depending on where you shop, you may find two definitions
for Chateaubriand. Most American cookbooks (and the
National Livestock Board) describe Chateaubriand as
a roast cut from the center portion of the beef tenderloin.
Some chefs (notably French ones) and some butchers
also use the term to denote a single tenderloin steak
(about 1¼ inches thick). Since these smaller
steaks are best suited to grilling and sautéing,
when I talk about Chateaubriand in this book, I am
referring to the larger cut. Some markets use the
term filet mignon roast to avoid confusion. Whatever
the name, shop for a chunk of tenderloin in the 2
to 2½ pound range. Most often Chateaubriand
comes from the evenly shaped center section of the
tenderloin, but many markets also take it from the
thicker butt portion. Both are good choices.
BÉARNAISE SAUCE
Béarnaise is a luxuriantly thick, rich sauce
in the same family as hollandaise. Both rely on egg
yolks, lots of butter, gentle cooking, and a good deal
of whisking to make a thick yet light sauce. What sets
béarnaise apart is the addition of a tangy reduction
of shallots, tarragon, vinegar, and white wine that
provides the perfect counterbalance to the buttery sauce.
Making a good béarnaise is all about controlling
the heat so that the yolks thicken but don’t scramble.
Because I work on a gas stove, which responds quickly
to adjustments in the level of heat, I cook my sauce
directly on the stovetop in my favorite Windsor pan
(see What Is a Windsor Pan?, page 84). Some cooks find
using a double boiler is a safer bet. If you go that
route, you will have more room to whisk if you skip
the conventional double boiler and instead set a medium-size
metal bowl over a saucepan filled partway with water,
being sure the bottom of the bowl sits above the surface
of the water and not in it. Béarnaise also makes
fish, eggs, and vegetables - I love it with asparagus
- mighty tasty indeed.
Ingredients
1/4 cup minced shallots (about 1 medium)
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup champagne or white wine vinegar
6 whole black peppercorns
Two 3 to 4 inch leafy sprigs tarragon, plus 2 teaspoons
finely chopped fresh tarragon
12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter
2 large egg yolks
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
How to make
- Make the shallot-vinegar reduction. Combine the
shallots, white wine, vinegar, peppercorns, and tarragon
sprigs in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over
medium/high heat and cook until you have only 2 tablespoons
of liquid left and the shallots begin to look dry,
about 5 minutes. Strain through a small fine-mesh
strainer (I often use a tea strainer), pressing firmly
on the solids, into a bowl or liquid measure. Discard
the solids and let the liquid cool to room temperature.
- Clarify the butter. Melt the butter in a small heavy-based
saucepan over medium-low heat. Once the butter is
melted, adjust the heat so it simmers gently (it will
splatter some, but the idea is to control the heat
so it doesn’t pop and splatter wildly). Simmer
until there appears to be no more foam rising to the
surface, about 3 minutes. The butter will have separated
into three parts: solids floating on top, a clear
golden liquid, and more solids resting on the bottom
of the pan. Remove from the heat and spoon off just
the thick foam from the surface, doing your best not
to spoon away the clear liquid butter; don’t
worry about removing every last bit of foam. Set the
butter aside in a warm spot; when you make the sauce,
you need the butter to be warm enough that it doesn’t
solidify, but not so hot that it breaks the emulsion.
- Make the emulsion. Combine the egg yolks with 1
tablespoon of the shallot-vinegar reduction and 1
tablespoon water in a heavy-based saucepan (a 1½
to 2 quart pan, preferably a Windsor pan, works well)
or in a medium metal mixing bowl. Whisk the yolks
vigorously, off the heat, until they are lighter in
color and have gained a little volume, about 30 seconds.
Set the saucepan over low to medium-low heat (if using
the bowl for a double boiler, set the bowl over a
pan of barely simmering water, making sure the bottom
of the bowl does not touch the surface of the water).
Heat the yolks, whisking constantly and vigorously,
until the yolks lighten in color and thicken just
enough so the whisk leaves tracks on the bottom of
the pan (or bowl) as you drag it across, 2 to 3 minutes.
(Do not try to rush this process; if the heat is too
high, you risk scrambling the yolks and ruining the
sauce.) Once the yolks are thickened, immediately
remove the pan (or bowl) from the heat and whisk for
another 30 seconds to slow the cooking.
- Add the butter. Begin whisking in the clarified
butter, a tablespoon or so at a time, until the sauce
is thick and voluminous. (If at any time the butter
doesn’t appear to incorporate into the sauce
- in other words, if the sauce threatens to break
- stop adding butter and whisk the sauce steadily
until it comes back together). Continue adding all
of the clarified butter, pouring carefully so you
don’t add the milky solids that have sunk to
the bottom.
- Finish the sauce. Whisk in 1 teaspoon of the remaining
shallot-vinegar reduction, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and
the finely chopped tarragon. Season to taste with
the remaining reduction, more salt, and pepper. Keep
in a warm, but not hot, place until ready to serve.
(I generally keep it near the back of the stove.)
Makes about 1 cup, enough for 4 to 6 serving
BASIC ROASTED RACK OF LAMB
 When
I’m looking to make a special-occasion dinner but
don’t have a lot of time to fuss, rack of lamb
is one of the first dishes I consider. The delicate
arch of slender rib bones and the tender, distinctive
meat bring a certain luxury to even the humblest table.Roasting
and carving is an entirely straightforward affair—as
long as you have a reliable meat thermometer in the
house. My roasting method involves a quick sear on top
of the stove followed by 20 to 30 minutes in a moderate
oven. If you’re entertaining, you can sear the
lamb well before your guests arrive, which gives you
a chance to wipe up any splatters and vent any smoke,
and then quietly roast the racks during cocktails.
Depending on the setting, rack of lamb pairs with
a range of side dishes, from simple to fancy, from roasted
potatoes (page 488) and green beans to gratin dauphinoise
and porcini risotto. Traditionalists may like mint jelly
on the side, but I prefer a more exciting condiment,
like my Fig, Mint, and Pine Nut Relish (see below).
Method: Combination sear and moderate heat
Roasting time: 20 to 30 minutes (plus 4 to
6 minutes to sear)
Wine: Classic rack of lamb does exceptionally
well with a youthful Pinot Noir from the Russian River
Valley or Carneros in California or Oregon’s
Willamette Valley.
Ingredients
2 racks of lamb (1¼ to 1½ lbs and 7
to 8 ribs each), trimmed (see Trimming and Frenching
Rack of Lamb, page 125)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
How to make
- Heat the oven. Position a rack near the center of
the oven and heat to 350°F (325°F convection).
- Trim the lamb. If there is more than a thin layer
of fat left on the racks, trim them so that only a
thin layer remains. Do not attempt to remove all the
fat, and be careful not to cut away any of the precious
meat.
- Sear the racks. Pat the lamb dry and season the
meat all over with salt and pepper. Heat a heavy skillet
(12-inch cast iron works well) over high heat. Lower
one rack, meat side down, into the hot skillet. If
there’s room without crowding, sear the other
rack at the same time. It’s okay if the bone
ends extend over the side of the skillet (your objective
here is to get a good sear on the meat; the bones
don’t need to brown). When the top is nicely
browned, 2 to 3 minutes, turn with tongs and brown
the bottom for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and repeat with
the second rack, if necessary. This can be done up
to 2 hours ahead. Leave the meat at room temperature.
(If you wish to protect the tips of the rib bones
from possibly charring, cover them with a thin strip
of aluminum foil. I don’t bother as it doesn’t
affect the flavor, and I like the appearance of a
little char.)
- Roast. Transfer the racks, bone side down, to a
heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet or shallow roasting
pan. You may need to interlock the bone ends to make
the racks fit. If possible, arrange the racks so the
meaty part faces the outside of the pan; this will
help them to cook more evenly. Roast until an instant-read
thermometer inserted in the center of the meat reads
125°F to 130°F for rare to medium-rare, 20
to 25 minutes, or 135°F to 140°F for medium-rare
to medium, 25 to 30 minutes.
- Rest, carve, and serve. Transfer the lamb to a carving
board, preferably one with a trough, to rest for 5
to 10 minutes. Carve by slicing down between the rib
bones, cutting into single rib chops (1 bone each,
as shown above) or double rib chops (2 bones each)
as desired. Serve, spooning any carving juices over
the top.
Serves 4 - 6
FIG, MINT, AND PINE NUT RELISH
In place of traditional mint jelly, serve this bright
tasting relish alongside roasted lamb (it’s good
with pork and chicken, too). If you’re skilled
at multitasking in the kitchen, make the relish as the
lamb roasts. If there’s already a lot going on,
make it ahead of time. The relish can sit for several
hours before serving, but the lamb is best served right
away.
Ingredients
1/2 cup finely chopped dried figs, black mission,
Turkish, or Calimyrna (about 3 ounces)
1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint
1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted and coarsely chopped
1 scant teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
How to make
In a small bowl, combine the figs, mint, pine nuts,
garlic, and lemon zest. Stir to combine. Drizzle in
the oil and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper
to taste.
Makes about 3/4 cup, enough for 4 to 6 servings
SLOW-ROASTED HERBED TURKEY BREAST
 As
much as I enjoy roasting a whole turkey, there are occasions
when I crave the taste of roast turkey but don’t
want to bother with the whole bird. Fortunately, a single
boneless turkey breast becomes a wonderful little roast,
ideal for a small dinner party or a relaxed family supper.
I will sometimes make this when there are only 2 or
3 of us at the table, knowing that I can look forward
to superb turkey sandwiches later in the week. A single
breast weighs between 2 and 3 pounds. For this recipe,
you want one with the skin on, but no bones. This gives
you a compact roast that will have a handsome, browned
exterior and be a cinch to carve.
There are two keys to keeping the turkey breast
moist and flavorful. First, the turkey gets rubbed with
an herb paste ahead of time, so the salt and seasonings
can work into the meat. I use a full complement of herbs—sage,
rosemary, and thyme—but you could certainly create
your own combinations based on what’s growing on
the windowsill or sitting in your refrigerator. Then
you want to sear the breast in a skillet before roasting
it in a low oven, where it can cook through without
drying out. I like to serve this with roasted potatoes
and something green, like string beans or a salad. The
meat is so moist that it doesn’t need gravy. Trust
me.
Method: Combination sear and low heat
Roasting time: 1½ to 1¾ hours
(plus 12 minutes to sear)
Plan ahead: The turkey needs to be rubbed with
an herb paste 6 to 24 hours before roasting.
Wine: One of the most versatile of all wine
pairings - anything from fruity dry and off-dry whites,
such as Riesling, Chenin Blanc, and Pinot Gris, to
lighter reds, such as a young vintage of Pinot Noir
or Beaujolais.
Ingredients
2 garlic cloves
1¼ teaspoons kosher salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh sage
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon celery seeds
1 boneless turkey breast half (about 2½ lbs),
with skin
How to make
- Make the herb paste. Combine the garlic and salt
in a mortar and pound until you have a smooth paste.
(If you don’t have a mortar, make the paste
using a chef’s knife; see Making Garlic Paste
Without a Mortar and Pestle, page 230.) Transfer
to a small bowl and stir in 2 tablespoons olive oil,
herbs, pepper, and celery seeds.
- Season and tie the turkey breast. Smear the turkey
breast all over with the herb paste, using your fingers
to slide some of the paste under the skin, being careful
not to loosen the skin completely. Using your hands,
arrange the turkey breast in a neat shape, tucking
the edges under so the breast sits plumply on the
cutting board. Now tie the breast, using 2 to 3 loops
of kitchen string to secure it in a cylindrical shape
and looping a longer string from end to end to keep
the roast compact. Place the roast on a wire rack
on a baking sheet or tray and refrigerate, preferably
uncovered, for 6 to 24 hours. Let the roast sit at
room temperature for about an hour before roasting.
- Heat the oven. Position a rack near the center of
the oven and heat to 300°F (275°F convection).
- Sear the turkey. Heat a large skillet (11 to 12
inches) over medium-high heat. Add the remaining tablespoon
oil and heat until the oil shimmers. Sear the turkey
skin side down, maneuvering it and turning it from
side to side with tongs so the skin side sears evenly,
about 6 minutes. Turn the turkey skin side up and
brown lightly on the bottom, another 2 to 3 minutes.
Transfer the turkey, skin side up, to a shallow roasting
pan or baking dish not much larger than it is (about
8 by 12 inches).
- Roast. Slide the turkey into the oven and roast
until the juices run mostly clear with a trace of
pink and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the
thickest part registers about 165°F, 1½
to 1¾ hours. Let the turkey rest for 20 minutes.
- Carve and serve. Remove the strings and carve the
turkey across the grain into 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick
slices. There will be few, if any, pan drippings (because
of the pre-seasoning and slow cooking), but if there
are a few, drizzle these over the meat.
Serves 4 - 6
To
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Published
22 November 2011
This
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