It
is interesting to see a book, which was first published
in 1990, being republished seventeen years later,
making it the fifth reprint. That alone must say something
about the lasting qualities of the book and its author,
Marco Pierre White.
If
you have read the autobiography you will have come
across a lot of what is in the introduction to this
book but its not to be missed because this was Marco
Pierre White then and the autobiography is written
with hindsight.
The
black and white mood photography by Bob Carlos Clarke
is still as stunning now as when first published and
the Marco Pierre White quotes are a delight to read.
The food photography looks a bit dated seventeen years
on but still shows the dishes well.
"Nine
out of ten English chefs have their names on their
chests. Who do they think they are? They're dreamers.
They're jokes. Just ask yourself how many chefs in
this country have Michelin stars and how many have
their names on their jackets. We all wear blue aprons
in my kitchen because we're all commis. We're all
still learning."
The
main body of the book is made up of recipes from Harveys.
What did I miss all those years ago? Just reading
them makes your mouth water . . . Ravioli of Lobster
with a Beurre Soy Sauce, Tagliatelle of Oyster
with Caviar, Tranche of Calves' Liver with
a Sauce of Lime! The list is endless and there
are some wonderful dessert recipes too like Hot
Mango Tart and Marco Pierre White's take on rum
baba, Savarin of Raspberries. You will also
find two of the dishes that have become very well
known recently following the latest Hell's Kitchen
- Braised Pig's Trotter 'Pierre Koffmann' and
Lemon Tart.
Whilst
none of these recipes are for the complete beginner
they are not so daunting that most enthusiastic home
cooks cannot do them. Certainly fare to impress your
friends and guests with should you cook them for a
small dinner party . . . but do practice them first.
Hidden
away at the back of the book are some priceless gems
such as stock recipes, ones which you can prepare
at home, basic pasta . . . those things that really
bring a dish together or form the basis of the dish.
Seventeen
years on this book remains as fresh as the day it
was first published and comes highly recommended both
for its insight and for its cooking.
