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Kitchen
Confidential
by Anthony Bourdain
Kitchen
Confidential is for diners who believe that their sublime
sliver of seared foie gras, topped with an ethereal
buckwheat blini and a drizzle of piquant huckleberry
sauce, was created by a culinary artist of the highest
order, a sensitive, highly refined executive chef. The
truth is more brutal.
More
likely, writes Anthony Bourdain, that elegant three-star
concoction is the collaborative effort of a team of
"wacked-out moral degenerates, dope fiends, refugees,
a thuggish assortment of drunks, sneak thieves, sluts,
and psychopaths," in all likelihood pierced or
tattooed and incapable of uttering a sentence without
an expletive or a foreign phrase. Such is the muscular
view of the culinary trenches from one who's been groveling
in them, with obvious sadomasochistic pleasure, for
more than 20 years.
Bourdain,
currently the executive chef of the celebrated Les Halles,
wrote two culinary mysteries before his first (and infamous)
New Yorker essay launched this frank confessional about
the lusty and larcenous real lives of cooks and restaurateurs.
He is obscenely eloquent, unapologetically opinionated,
and a damn fine storyteller - a Jack Kerouac of the
kitchen.
Those
without the stomach for this kind of joyride should
note his opening caveat: "There will be horror
stories. Heavy drinking, drugs, screwing in the dry-goods
area, unappetizing industry-wide practices. Talking
about why you probably shouldn't order fish on a Monday,
why those who favour well-done get the scrapings from
the bottom of the barrel, and why seafood frittata is
not a wise brunch selection . . . But I'm simply not
going to deceive anybody about the life as I've seen
it."
Sumi
Hahn
Kitchen
Blender Overdrive (November 2003)
Reviewer: "morrisalex"
Once
I picked this up I could not put it down. It flows
naturally like a good velote and hits you right in
the face like a great wine. Whether you are a foody,
chef or just looking for an entertaining read this
is a must.
Anthony's
travels through the underworld of chefdom confirm
your worst fears and also build your appreciation
of the hard slog that kitchen life really is for most
non-TV chefs. From the characters he has met and shows
fond affection for in his early years, to the intricacies
of fighting to get the clean cloths at the start of
a shift.
If
your not a chef it is hard to believe at times, but
speak to any chef who has read this book and they
will tell you that it is very close to their reality.
The ride goes from the very top of the souffle to
the grimy bottom of the bowl. A must read.
Rock
'n Roll Cook's Tale (October 2003)
Reviewer: "akkerr" - See all my reviews
Anthony
Bourdain is a very good writer. His style is that
easy flow that seems like he's just talking to you
- and it suits this book perfectly.
From
his drug-hazed beginnings in chefdom to his (later)
lucid appreciation of all things culinary, you do
get a real sense of the chaos and artistry that takes
place in most kitchens.
He
changes tack about 3/4 of the way through and goes
from being a hard-nosed old-hander, telling you like
it is, to a more self-effacing well-rounded chef,
explaining that his way is not always the best way.
It's
a culinary roller-coaster ride, full of sharp little
stories, and handy advice for people eating out in
restaurants (what to avoid, specifically!) - as well
as an open and honest assessment of his own career.
An
easy read - quite rewarding, not particularly gripping,
but worthwhile all the same.
Rich
pickings from a full table (May 2003)
Reviewer: "critico"
As
fast and furious as a prep-cook working his way through
a pound carrots needing dicing and only a butchers
knife at hand and a minute to go. Bourdain lets it
all hang out and confirms that cooks are one special
breed indeed - when solemnly exercising their creative
talents let alone when they're inebriated and/or intoxicated.
Both happens a lot in the book but it all helps convey
the gristy salty experience it must be to stand with
a kitchen akin a bedlam and roomful of people waiting
for the soufflé that just collapsed.
It
also makes one wonder why we enjoy eating out - even
the most unimaginative person can guess what shenanigans
go on in the kitchen (and if not, read this book and
you won't need any imaginative powers at all). They
get up to all sorts and yet, we continually put our
palates, stomachs and ultimately lives in the hands
of cooks, chefs and kitchen porters.
Why?
Well, Anthony Bourdain has quite clearly survived
25 years in the trade with both tastebuds and narrative
powers intact so why shouldn't we - when there is
so much to gain. OK, so he does have some sensible
advice, which he says he follows himself, including
the no-seafood-on-Mondays rule.
Read the book and I think you'll find it as wholesome
and satisfactory as four course meal with the one
lingering thought it might just have been that one
notch closer to perfection had there just been three.
If you want to order a copy of the book
- click
here (USA)
If you want to order a copy of the book
- click
here (UK)
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