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American
Masala: 125 New Classics from My Home Kitchen
by Suvir Saran
Book
Description
In Indian Home Cooking, Suvir Saran introduced our
taste buds, and our kitchens, to the wonders of cumin,
coriander, cardamom, and curry leaves. American Masala
takes the next step, marrying Indian flavors with American
favorites to create dishes that are exotic, yet familiar;
full of complex tastes, yet easy enough for weeknight
suppers. Masala - the Hindi word for a blend of spices
- is at the heart of Indian cooking. Whether toasted,
ground, fried, infused in oil, or fresh, spices are
used to layer flavors in simple but profound ways. Bring
the same techniques to American classics such as meatloaf,
macaroni and cheese, or roasted turkey, and the result
is something truly special. Masala also refers to the
excitement and vibrancy that come from a house full
of friends and family. Simple recipes prepared with
staples found in every supermarket mean less time laboring
in the kitchen and more time spent enjoying the spice
of life.
From
snacks and starters and on to the evening meal, the
Indian influence brightens the flavors in dishes like:
- Goat
Cheese PestoStuffed Chicken Breasts
- Tamarind-Glazed
Turkey with Corn BreadJalapeño Stuffing
- Crab-and-Salmon
Cakes with Spicy Cilantro Aïoli
- Crispy
Okra Salad
- Bombay-Style
Whole Snapper
- Honey-Glazed
Double-Thick Pork Chops
- Pistachio-and-Cardamom
Pound Cake with Lemon Icing
- Fried
Eggs with Asparagus and Prosciutto
American
Masala isnt about traditional Indian foodits
about adding new flavors to the great American melting
pot, using spices to liven up the old standbys, and
enjoying dishes that are as exciting and diverse as
life in the big city, and yet as familiar and comforting
as your mothers cooking.
Another
Winning Book from Suvir Saran (October 2007)
Reviewer: Matthew Christensen "Anskov"
I
picked up my copy of "American Masala" last
night so this review is a first impressions sort of
look at chef Suvir Saran's latest cookbook. First
of all, the photography and the graphic elements that
make up this book are vividly colorful. As you can
see from the cover, the colors are rich and intense
- almost a visual foretaste of the equally vivid flavors
and unique layering of spices you will experience
when you try these recipes. Building on "Indian
Home Cooking," this second book provides even
more background to the recipes - the stories of people
and experiences that have inspired Saran's collection
of "125 new classics" are a pure pleasure
to read. In fact, when I got home last night, I sat
in bed reading Saran's book as I would a novel, getting
lost in the textures and rhythms of anecdotes from
Delhi, New York and other places around the world.
Today
I decided to try Suvir's recipe for vegetarian enchiladas
with roasted pepper sauce. As I looked through the
recipe to make my shopping list, I discovered that
I would be actually making three recipies: the roasted
pepper sauce, the stir-fried carrot salad, and the
enchiladas themselves. Now enchiladas, like many of
the foods you will see in this cookbook, may seem
a peculiar offering from one of the leading authorities
in this country on Indian cooking. But as the title
suggests, this book reflects Saran's own experience
in America (where, as he states early on, he has lived
almost as long as he had lived in India). Many of
these recipes will no doubt seem familiar to you as
you thumb through the book, but if you look at the
ingredients, you will notice how Suvir subtly recreates
them with new flavors and spices.
I
have just finished making the roasted pepper sauce
(fantastic!), the carrot salad (deeply warm and spicy
with a lovely tang of lime) and have assembled the
enchiladas. I'll be putting them in the oven in a
few minutes and cannot wait to try them.
Get
this book, it's a wonderful reflection of a gifted
chef.
Good,
for a change! (October 2007)
Reviewer: Jo Ann Henderson "Tisino"
I
have a copy of this book - intrigued by the title
alone. As I read through the recipes, I noticed that
most of them are familiar, but there is a bit of a
twist on each. I made the Creamy Cauliflower and Spinach
soup as a test recipe for a low fat, low cholesterol
addition to a feeding study for my job. Spectacular!
This soup hit all the marks - texture, taste, visual
appeal, intense flavor. Chef Saran has taken the familiar
and left them familiar, adding the subtle spice that
reflects a change that is unmistakably there, but
not obnoxious. These recipes are for those who are
reticent about trying new things on their palate.
It's what you would expect from a mac and cheese or
fried chicken, but with a little sump'n-sump'n - like
a Masala.
It
Just Keeps Getting BETTER & BETTER (October
2007)
Reviewer: Jon Templeton "www.bretstable.com"
Having
delved into Suvir Saran's earlier book Indian Home
Cooking, I've been waiting for months with giddy anticipation
to get my hands on his newest work, American Masala
- 125 New Classics from My Home Kitchen (Clarkson
Potter, $35).
Within
a week, I have read it cover to cover, senses awakening
again as I gazed at each gorgeous color photograph
and checking off seemingly every recipe to try sooner
rather than later. Mr. Saran writes with the same
passion and wit that he conveys in person, whether
it be teaching a class of eager students or sharing
a meal with friends and family.
His
stories of growing up in India in the shadow (a.k.a.
underfoot) of his family's cook, grandmother, and
mother somehow transcend his life and inspires others.
He shares his joy of learning from those he loves
and inspires us to teach those who may be underfoot
in our own kitchens.
In
American Masala, he takes American standards and gives
them an Indian twist. The book begins with the foundation
of Indian cuisine, chutneys, pickled vegetables, a
raita, and spice blends, especially the keystone:
Garam Masala, but quickly moves to the American melting
pot with Spinach Lasagna with Roasted Eggplant Sauce
and Veggie Enchiladas with Roasted Pepper Sauce. The
ease of his recipes and his encouragement throughout
the book make it seem as though anyone can welcome
unexpected drop-in guests without panic. As he states,
with just the fewest of pantry staples like red onions,
red bell peppers, potatoes, and jalapeños;
a couple of hearty snacks can be in front of your
guests at a moment's notice.
At
last, Saran gives us his recipe for Manchurian Chicken.
No longer is there the need to search cyber space
for this delectable dish nor fly to New York, to eat
this flavorful creation again at his soon to be re-opened
restaurant, Devi. Now you can make it at home! With
just a few simple ingredients, the most exotic being
garlic and ketchup, this dish is sure to please. Eggplant
Caponata traditionally includes tomatoes, olives and
capers, but Saran's Indian version includes jalapeños,
ground coriander, toasted cumin, and fresh cilantro.
There's
no trace of mayo in his cabbage slaw; instead you'll
find fresh ginger, chaat masala, toasted cumin, cayenne
pepper, and finely chopped jalapeño peppers.
Every salad bar in America seems to have some version
of carrot salad, but for his, Saran sautés
cumin seeds and ground peppercorns, adds ground coriander,
then stir fries grated carrots and green cabbage,
adding a few other ingredients at the end like cilantro
and toasted cumin. As he states time and again, the
simplest ingredients become sublime with the layering
and use of spices: whole, ground, toasted dry, or
sautéed in oil.
The
Mushroom and Taleggio Turnovers are savory pillows
of crimini, rosemary and red pepper flakes with a
splash of white wine all surrounded by flaky, buttery
goodness. For a quick sauce use the one from the Manchurian
Chicken, adding a little water to thin and spoon over
these puff pastry delights.
The
Garam Masala that you made earlier now delights the
Indian-spiced Meatballs with Tomato-Chile Sauce. With
garlic and chilies at the center, the spices of the
Garam Masala - including ground cloves and cayenne
pepper -- are the stars that twinkle with clarity
and delight in the meatballs. These delectable gems
are bathed in a tomato and red bell pepper sauce,
spiked with dried red chilies, fresh rosemary and
thyme.
Pistachio-and-Cardamom
Pound Cake is an absolutely delicious way to end a
meal and can be assembled and baked in no time. As
with any butter cake, make it a day ahead so the flavors
can meld. If your taste buds can't wait, bake it in
the morning, drizzle the Lemon Icing just prior to
serving and watch your guests swoon over the flavors
of cardamom and toasted ground pistachios. We have
now deemed this cake the "orgasm cake"!!
Whether
impromptu friends arrive at your doorstep, you have
all a day to prepare a feast, or need inspiration
to update your favorite recipe for macaroni and cheese,
American Masala will become a standard cookbook in
your library. Saran's chapter introductions as well
as his footnotes for every recipe can be read over
and over to inspire and remember why cooking and sharing
good food is about comfort and adventure.
A
Bientôt! Bret Bannon
If
you want to order a copy of the book - click
here (USA)
If you want to order a copy of the book
- click
here (UK)
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