Cooking or culinary holidays, vacations, tours in Italy:

Italy with relish
. . . cooking holidays, cooking vacations, culinary tours in Umbria and Tuscany

Because of its location, because of its Etruscan roots, because of its charming medieval character, and above all because of its celebrated Cathedral which is a gem of Gothic architecture, Orvieto is one of Italy's most unique and interesting cities . . .

The Early Years

The early years, were very early indeed. The tectonic clash that pushed the Italian peninsula out of the oceans coincided with massive volcanic eruptions, covering the land in thick ash, hundreds of meters deep. Over time this compressed to create "Tuffo" the soft pumice rock that Orvieto and the surrounding area lie on. The local "Paglia" river, changing its course every now and then excavated the valley on both sides leaving a long, boat shaped mesa or pillar in the middle, perfect for habitation and defence.

Orvieto was at the heart of the Etruscan civilisation, which thrived in central Italy between 800 and 200 BC. The Etruscans are famous for their art and culture but also for certain scandalous habits such as allowing women to sit, eat and discuss politics at the table with men. Unfortunately they backed the loser of an Empirical power struggle in Rome, the rising power from the south, with the result that the Etruscans were either wiped out by the winner, the Emperor Salò or later absorbed into the new Roman Empire, (I suspect conversation at the dinner table will have become a lot less interesting).

The Gradual Disintegration of the Roman Empire

The gradual disintegration of the Roman Empire made Orvieto one of the last outposts against invasion by the northern hordes, forced to suffer attack and siege by various Goths, Byzantines and Lombards. When these stayed on and eventually converted to Christianity, Orvieto found itself again on the front line, this time between the Guelfs, supporting the Papacy and the Ghibelines who were for the Holy Roman Empire. (The title, is an early version of political spin as it was neither holy nor roman). This fault line in the power balance of Europe allowed small independent states to form and in the Eleventh century the City Sate of Orvieto was founded and later allied itself strongly with the Guelf faction.

This was followed by a period of rapid growth when most of the large historic buildings we see today were built. The most stunning of these is the "Duomo" or cathedral, which was started in 1290. It is said that Siena bankrupted itself trying to build a better one and that the Signiorelli frescoes were the inspiration for the Sistine chapel (They look a bit heavy metal to me.)

In 1860

In 1860 Orvieto was annexed to the Italian Kingdom, which later became the Italian Republic. Even though the area around the station was heavily bombed, the city itself emerged from World War II largely unscathed. The British and German commanders on the front line, as it was pushed northward, came to a gentleman's agreement. Cease hostilities for a few hours so an orderly retreat could be effected and the war started again, in a less historically important place further up the valley.

Today

Today the city is bustling, busy and prosperous. Yet still retains its unique character, even in high season the locals easily outnumber the visitors. Each year the town divides itself in two, each half passionately supporting their team in the "Palio dell'oca". This is a series of short sprint, horse races held in the dangerously packed market square. The locals display an almost religious fealty to their "Contrada" and the races are hard fought. I once had the "honour" to be the official starter for these races, the only foreigner ever to be asked. I have to say it was the most nerve-wracking thing I have ever done. Some of the horses and almost all of the riders lacked anything in the way of control. Things were made even tenser when a malicious rumour was spread amongst the crowd (by a friend of mine) that I had been paid off by one side. I escaped unscathed and was even asked to be starter again the next year, but declined.

Chef Jonathan Arthur

I have always seemed to find myself by accident or design, in a kitchen. As the youngest child of a farming family in Cornwall I was always the one helping my mother make butter, bread and of course pasties. As a teenager in school we were allowed to chose between metalwork or domestic science, as the former was taught by a notorious sadist and the later was full of girls it seemed a no brainer, though I was the only boy in the cooking class.

After getting a degree at Bristol University, like many a stary eyed youth I decided that the life of rock and roll was the one for me but even here found myself organising the catering for music festivals like WOMAD and Young CND. After a while it was obvious that the music industry while it makes some very rich indeed it wasn't going to do much for me and so I applied to work on the management team of a small chain of restaurants, Huffs of London. I soon found that when one of the Chefs called in sick, hung over or had a new girl or boy friend I was the one left holding fort or baking tray. By the time I left I was making and cooking hundreds of croissant and Danish pastries every morning before the rest of the staff arrived.

Life changed when I met Sarah Miatt who used to work occasionally in the kitchens to pay for her studio in Wapping, after being together for a year we decided we wanted to get married and have children but both felt the big city wasn't the best place to raise a family, so the week after our wedding we moved to Italy.

My family is very well known in the horse world having broken and trained a number of Olympic competitors and so my first employment in Italy was as a riding instructor and by chance the club I taught at was based at a lovely farm near Orvieto called La Cacciata that was also the place where Alister Little held his cooking courses, we became friends and I learnt a lot not just about food but also how to run an enjoyable cooking holiday. Alister no longer teaches at the farm but still get the olive oil shipped over to sell in his west London shop.

Slowly I moved out of the horse business and into cooking holidays, at first the agencies would hire me as a guide and translator but soon found that given I knew as much as the Chef it was cheaper to employ just one of us. This led on to me catering for weddings then for conferences and even Italian political leaders, aristocrats and industrialists. It is a great compliment but I must be one of the very few Englishmen to be paid by Italians to cook for Italians. At times when the host in some splendid Tuscan villa is complimented on the food, I have to be pulled out of the kitchen to prove to the guest that the Chef was truly English.

I am very interested in both the history and science of cooking which has led me to be invited to teach in England France and the USA both to amateurs and professional Chefs, I also teach the University of Alberta Aluni annually on "Italian cuisine in it's historical and cultural context".

However for this cooking holiday I prefer to keep Lella and Simonetta in the foreground out of respect for their experience and the great tradition of Italian Chefs they represent. I am also assisted by my 17 year old daughter Elisabeth who, born in Italy is bi-lingual and a great help both in the kitchen and as a guide.

The Belcapo family have lived at La Cacciata, their estate overlooking the city of Orvieto for over 250 years. During this time many things have changed but their commitment to the quality of their farm products and to the tradition of hospitality remain the same. Avv. Sentimio Belcapo, the patriarch, still keeps a firm hold on the family business with Francesco his younger son looking after most of the day to day running of it.

The Vineyard of some 9 hectares produces mainly Orvieto Classico (80%) but also some excellent San Giovese red. The cellars used to produce the wine were hewn out of the solid rock, by hand, generations ago. They still keep the vintages at a steady temperature all year.

The Olive Oil Mill takes pride of place on the estate and the 2000 olive trees give it beauty. While many oil producers have opted for more modern equipment, cutting down on labour costs and speeding production, the Belcapo family has stayed with the traditional methods. True a mule no longer turns the enormous granite wheels, substituted by an electric motor, but apart from this, the process and product remain the same as it was one hundred years ago. Belcapo oil is famous not only in Italy but is shipped around the world to Chefs and connoisseurs alike.

The Chefs who will be teaching have a lifetime of experience in creating authentic Umbrian dishes, Lella now a grand mother and Simonetta who works with her are the acknowledged experts of the area. Jonathan who assists and translates, is one of the few Englishmen to have cooked professionally for Italian society including cabinet misters and political party chiefs. He has taught in numerous cooking schools in Italy, the USA and UK. He also lectures annually to the University of Alberta, (he has some way to go before measuring up to the ladies though!)

The accommodation, in the various cottages around the estate were once inhabited by the farm workers. All bedrooms (now) have en-suite bathrooms.

Agriculture in Italy was once much more labour intensive and transport limitations meant that everyone who worked on the land, lived on the land. La Cacciata along with most of the old estates has, grouped around the farm centre, a number of charming old cottages once inhabited by the farm workers These have been renovated, maintaining the original character, to make simple yet comfortable accommodation for guests. All rooms have en suite bathrooms and rural views.

They don't have 'phones, TV or internet points, though guests are welcome to log on at the farm office.
Neither are they furnished with small fridges selling overpriced drinks in plastic bottles, however all are within a short walk of the bar and extensive cellars.

Normally meals are served outside on the terrace although the Taverna is available in case of wet or windy weather.

The large swimming pool must have one of the most stunning views in central Italy. At about Apperativo time the sun illuminates the stunning façade of Orvieto Cathedral, on full view from your sun lounger.

Fattoria La Cacciata is an old charming country farmhouse set in the lush green hills of Umbria with a breathtaking view of the quaint town of Orvieto and its stunning cathedral perched on a crag sprouting from the ground.

The rich volcanic soil of these hills produces a variety of the finest wines such as Orvieto Classico DOC and a red wine, Orvietano Rosso, peculiar to this area, as well as, excellent Extra Virgin Olive Oil and quality home made products that you will be able to savour during your stay.

The Belcapo family has owned the estate for generations. You will be able to appreciate the best of local and traditional Italian cooking in their characteristic tavern and enjoy outdoor living such as horse riding, as La Cacciata is also a horse riding school, or just relaxing by the swimming pool admiring the beautiful views.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil	Orvieto Classico	Orvietano Rosso

Luxury Cooking holiday

This holiday is designed for those who really wish to be pampered. A beautiful breakfast will be provided daily along with the international news papers. All suites, cleaned daily, have small kitchens which will be kept stocked with water, milk, coffee etc. The group size will be kept small, a maximum of eight people so the Chefs will have ample time to devote to each guest. The lessons will concentrate on traditional Tuscan dishes with an emphasis on healthy eating and raw materials that are available outside of Italy.

Accommodation

Luxury accommodation is in two person apartment suites. Each has heating/air conditioning, its own sitting room and small kitchen. Also telephone, satellite TV and internet connection.

The hotel has a 9 x 18 metre swimming pool with hydro massage and a well equipped gymnasium.
The location is among the picturesque rolling hills of southern Tuscany, less than 30 minutes from both Arezzo and the Etruscan town of Cortona.

Chef Ricky

This is also my chance to work with my nephew Ricky, (Ricardo Arthur, my elder brothers son). He learnt his craft as Chef at the famous Locanda L'Amorosa and in the prestigious Il Carpaccio which forms part of the hotel Del Royal Monceau (Five star deluxe) in Paris. Just a year ago he took over as managing Chef at L'Arcimbolda Restaurant which forms part Agriturismo S. Angelo. Since opening it has been attracting rave reviews.

Ricky has the experience and knowledge to teach at any level along with the youth to give enthusiasm and energy to the classes.

Lessons are hands on with maximum group size eight people. We dine on the results of our labours, Chianti DOC wine is included in the price.

On hand at all meals is Tony the restaurant Sommelier, during the week he will be introducing us to a variety of wine from the Italian peninsular.

Chef Richard Arthur, or Chef Ricky

Richard Arthur, or Chef Ricky as he is known, was born in the Seventies, first child of the marriage of an English horse trainer (my brother Shaun) and a beautiful Italian girl from Torrita di Siena, Adriana Leonardi. At the wedding I was only 17 and it was my first full wedding feast in Italy. Absolutely unforgettable. Back then, many of the dishes and their ingredients were unknown in the UK, or at least the part of Cornwall where I lived. It was probably one of the crucial experiences that made me decide I had to come to live in this land of such flavour and succulence.

When working in Italy for 15 months between school and University and on the long summer breaks I would often stay with my brother and his charming new wife. She was, and still is, an exceptional cook as was her mother, grand mother and so on. The female line is long and hardy, when Adriana gave birth to Alessandra her daughter, there were five female generations alive, going back to her great great grandmother.

As Ricky grew so did his interest in cooking and at fourteen he decided to enrol in Chefs school for the gruelling five year course. On graduation, his prize as top student enabled him to get a place working as assistant Chef in the prestigious Il Carpaccio, the Michelin starred restaurant which forms part of the Hotel Del Royal Monceau (Five star deluxe) in Paris.

In those times, military service could be delayed but not altogether avoided, so after gathering a lot of experience in Paris, Ricky had to return to Italy and his patriotic duty. (Luckily it was largely driving ambulances.) Following military service, the next stop was L'Amorosa, the famous hotel and restaurant near Sinalunga, province of Siena. After some years as Chef he decided it was time to look for further challenges.

As it happened a nearby farming family had decided to diversify into the hotel business, the Iluminati family, long one of the most successful fruit growers in the Val di Chiana. By an acquisition of more land for apple groves, they found themselves owners of a large house that once would have been occupied by the owner of the estate and his servants. This was restored to create the S. Angelo hotel, in part of which is the L'Arcimboldo restaurant, managed by Chef Ricky. Since opening there has been a steady rise both in clientele and favourable reviews.

Luxury accommodation is in two person apartment suites. Each has heating / air conditioning, its own sitting room and small kitchen. Also telephone, satellite TV and internet connection.

The hotel has a 9 x 18 metre swimming pool with hydro massage and a well equipped gymnasium.

The location is among the picturesque rolling hills of southern Tuscany, less than thirty minutes from both Arezzo and the Etruscan town of Cortona.