Rissoles on Smashed Garden Peas with Lime
Äioli and a Crab and Shellfish Bisque
recipe comes from Chef Jim Fisher who now runs
cooking holidays in the Dordogne.
you would like to know more about Jim and how he gained
his love of cooking why not have a look at his biography
find out more about the cooking holidays in France at
Jim's cooking school in the Dordogne you will need to
visit his web site <click
a boy in the 60s and 70s I well remember being forced
to eat Birdseye salmon rissoles. Remember them? Thin
garish orange disks possessing all the taste and texture
of a chipboard ice hockey puck (and looking at the rissoles
to be found in many contemporary supermarket freezer
cabinets things don't seem to have changed much).
you, like me, fed up with this parlous state? Nothing
for it then but to make your own: always the best way
to find out how something should be done. My recipe
uses hake, but I know that it is difficult to find in
the UK as most of the hake from British waters goes
directly to Spain. Instead use cod, haddock, salmon,
trout, red mullet - anything bar the truly oily fish
such as mackerel and herring.
other addition that sets these apart is the use of a
really exceptional quality home-made crab and shellfish
reduction, but you could certainly use a tin of good
quality crab bisque, simmered to reduce and concentrate
by a third. It won't taste the same, but will still
work. Start collecting the crab and prawn shells days,
weeks - months - in advance and freeze them. Make the
reduction as soon as you have enough. Once you have
all the bits, the reduction will take half a day to
lime Äioli? Hmm, make your own from scratch - there's
really no alternative!
Crab and Prawn Reduction:
4 crab carcasses (basically, all the trimmings and
leftovers from various meals) including legs and claws)
2 litres prawn shells and heads
4 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
1 peeled and roughly chopped onion
the juice and thinly pared zest of an orange
4 anchovy fillets
1 litre quality home-made fish stock
1 tsp paprika
2 egg yolks
2 tsp. white wine vinegar
the finely grated zest and juice of a lime
good pinch of salt
150ml (5fl oz) extra virgin olive oil
150ml (5fl oz) vegetable oil, such as ground nut
500g (1 lb.) floury potatoes, peeled and cut into
4cm (2in) chunks
250g (½ lb.) raw skinless hake (no bones!)
2 shallots, peeled and very finely chopped
2 to 3 tbsp well-reduced fish stock
2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley
sea salt and ground black pepper
2 eggs, beaten
fresh or dried breadcrumbs
½ lb. fresh (or frozen) garden peas
1 oz unsalted butter
sea salt and cracked black pepper
1 tbsp. roughly chopped mint leaves
Crab and Prawn Reduction:
the shellfish, along with all the other ingredients,
into a large saucepan, add the fish stock and top
up with water. Bring to a boil, then simmer until
reduced by half.
through a sieve, then return to a strong simmer until
reduced to about 500ml.
and freeze, or clingfilm and place in the fridge until
ready to use.
the two oils in a jug with a good pouring spout.
the egg yolks, vinegar (or lemon juice, if using)
and salt in a roomy stable bowl. Using an electric
hand whisk - or a balloon whisk, if you need to loose
some weight - combine the ingredients, then, literally
drop by drop, add the oil while the whisk is operating
at high speed. Carry on like this until about half
the oil has been used up and the mixture has taken
on a thick, slightly wobbly emulsified texture.
this point, you can start adding the oil a little
faster, initially dribble by dribble, then, as long
as the emulsion hasn't started to split, pour the
rest of the oil in a thin steady stream untill the
mayonnaise has become stiff and glossy, and quivers
when you shake the bowl.
the hake into 1cm (1/2in) cubes.
with the shallot, fish stock, parsley, half a teaspoon
of sea salt and a pinch of ground black pepper.
lightly oiled hands, form the mixture into four burger-size
shapes, then roll each first in the egg, then in the
breadcrumbs until well coated.
them in the fridge to firm up.
the peas for a minute or so only, drain, return to
the pan and melt in the butter.
in the mint, then slightly crush the peas with a fork,
but don't go too mad.
with salt and ground black pepper.
1cm (½ in) olive oil and 75g (3oz) unsalted
butter in a large frying pan until beginning to sizzle.
the rissoles and fry over a medium high heat for about
five minutes, or until golden.
then continue to fry for another five minutes, again
to a plate lined with lots of kitchen paper.
the shellfish reduction and the peas.
a mound of peas in the centre of four warmed serving
plates and pour some reduction around.
a rissole on top of the peas, then add a dollop of
lime Aioli on top of the rissole.