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CHOUX PASTRY
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RECIPE |
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 Questions,
questions . . .
An area that seems to pop up time and time again are
ones on pastry production.
Unlike
most areas of the kitchen, where a pinch of this and
a dash of that can work well, pastry making is more
of an exact science and I do not use that phrase lightly.
Pastry making is all about science, the science and
chemistry of foods. Understanding simple principles
of what happens at a chemical level to the ingredients,
goes a long way to helping you make great pastry.
If
you want a perfect result each time, exact measurements
are required and certain techniques must be applied.
For more information on pastry making have a look at
the page on pastry
making tips.
Choux
pastry is my choice of the week this week. A wonderful
versatile pastry, that can be used in so many ways and
be made into professional looking desserts that will
leave your dinner guests stunned. Choux paste is also
used in savoury dish such as:
- Pomme
Dauphine (choux paste mixed with duchesse potatoes)
- Gnocchi
Parisenne (small poached dumplings masked with
Mornay sauce and gratinated)
- Garnish
for soups such as consommés
- Duchesses
for canapés (small eclairs filled with savoury
mousses)
- Carolines
(crescent shaped and filled with savoury mousses
topped with chaud-froid sauce)
Profiteroles
Are small (bite-size) filled buns of choux pastry
with either a sweet or savory filling. They are probably
French originally, or at least the name is. The word
originated in French as diminutive form of "profit,"
and so etymologically means "small gains"
- and indeed it may have begun with denoting "a
little something extra" cooked along with the master's
main dish as part of the servants' perks. Alexander
Barclay, in his Eclogues (1515) writes "to toast
white shivers (slices of bread) and to make profiteroles,
and after talking oft time to fill the bowl."
Croquembouche
The croquembouche (meaning crunchy in the mouth)
traditionally plays an important role at French weddings,
baptisms, christenings and other family gatherings.
It has at its origins a fanciful, edible, architectural
structure displayed on the medieval tables of the French
Royalty and Nobility. It was later popularised by Antonin
Carème (1783 - 1833), the most famous French
Chef of his generation. He created Turkish Mosques,
Persian Pavilions, Gothic Towers and other pièces
montées from choux buns or profiteroles. The
shape in those days was that of a Turkish Fez.
The
whole genre spiralled upwards and out of control towards
the end of the Nineteenth century, but then subsided
to manageable dimensions. During the Twentieth century
the croquembouche has survived as a conical construction
of choux balls piled on top of each other on a nougatine
base with a decoration at the top.
But
where did this amazing little pastry originate? It has
an interesting little history. In 1533, when Catherine
de Medici left Florence in Italy, to marry the Duke
of Orleans who was later to become Henry II, King of
France from 1547, she brought with her to France her
entire court, which included her chefs. Seven years
later in 1540, her head chef, Panterelli, invented a
hot, dried paste with which he made a gateaux. He christened
the paste Pâte à Panterelli. The original
recipe changed as the years passed, and so did the paste's
name.
It
became known as pâte à popelini; popelins
were a form of cake made in the Middle Ages and were
made in the shape of a woman's breasts.
A
Chef de Patissierie called Avice perfected a paste in
the middle of the eighteenth century (1760) and created
choux buns or profiteroles. The pâte à
popelin became known as pâte à choux, since
only choux buns were made from it, choux meaning ‘cabbage’
which they are said to resemble. Antoine Carême
(said to be the first to wear the tall white chef hat/toque)
in the nineteenth century perfected the recipe further
and this is the same recipe for choux pastry as is used
today.
Ingredients for Choux Pastry
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water
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250
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ml
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butter
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125
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gm
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flour
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150
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gm
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eggs
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4
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pc
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How to make Choux Pastry
- Melt
the butter in the water and bring to a full boil
- Immediately
add the flour all at once and stir continuously with
a wooden spoon
- Cook
for a couple of minutes until the mixture pulls away
from the pan, forming a ball and remove from the heat
- Place
the dough in the bowl or a mixer, using a wooden spoon
or the paddle attachment, mix the dough for a few
minutes, allowing it to cool slightly
- Add
the beaten eggs gradually, in three or four additions,
mixing the dough until it is smooth each time. Scrape
down the sides and bottom of the bowl until all of
the eggs are incorporated
- The
paste should be of a pipeable consistency and not
too runny
For
beignets, choros, etc
A
little finely grated cheddar, herbs, spices etc may
be added to the mixture for savoury fritters
- Pipe
into shapes onto lightly oiled strips of greaseproof
paper
- Place
into a deep fryer (170ºC) and lightly dunk until the
paper can be easily removed
- Continue
frying for 12 - 15 minutes until brown and crisp,
turning occasionally
- These
may then be coasted/tossed in a mixture of castor
sugar/icing sugar/cornflour and cinnamon
For
profiteroles, eclairs, etc
- Pipe
the dough into desired shapes, onto sheet pans lined
with parchment paper, allowing space for them to raise
and expand
- Place
into a pre-heated oven, on the middle shelf: begin
the baking process at a high temp. (190º to 205ºC)
and allow to bake for 20 minutes - do not open
the oven during this time
- Reduce
the heat to 120ºC and continue to bake until they
turn golden brown and crisp
- Remove
one from the oven and cut open, it should be dry in
the centre with no uncooked dough in the middle: if
there is, replace and continue to bake at 120ºC
Chef's Tip on Choux Pastry
Baked
choux pastry products rise due to the egg content
and steam. Therefore it is essential that the oven
is hot, when the pastry is placed in the oven. Without
this initial burst of steam they will not rise properly
or dry out, they will stay flat and be soggy.
The
swans can be made by piping a profiterole using a
large star nozzle and then piping the necks with a
fine plain nozzle. As they are used only for decorative
purposes and very fine, these necks should be removed
from the oven after 20 minutes, to prevent them from
burning.
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Chef's
terminology:
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lt |
=
|
litres |
|
tsp |
= |
teaspoon |
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ml |
=
|
millelitres |
|
tbs |
= |
tablespoon |
| |
kg |
=
|
kilograms |
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sq |
= |
sufficient
quantity (add to taste) |
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gm |
=
|
grams |
|
pc |
= |
piece,
meaning a whole one of |
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Enjoy
your Choux pastry and bon appetit . . .
Recipe
from professional
Chef Tallyrand
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